We check into the Backpackers Inn, which is actually quite nice AND has a pool. Our private room has cable so we veg out for the afternoon watching Joe Dirt.
In the morning we hop on an early airport shuttle and before you know it, we're off to the Corn Islands! We make it to Big Corn and discover we have about 3 hours until the scheduled panga arrives so we sit at a nearby restaurant with some other travellers and nibble fried chicken.
Finally it comes time for the boat ride and luckily the water is absolute glass; the ride is fairly smooth with minimal splashege.
We begin unloading and a couple passengers have friends waiting with beers in hand for them.
I turn to Mike and wistfully say, "What a warm welcome, they're so lucky."
Not even a minute later I hear, "Welcome to the Island!" Standing there are Amanda and Joel, smiling and holding out cold Toñas for us. I nearly die of happiness.
They walk us over to Three Brothers Hostel, we check in and meet them at Desideri's for happy hour and get to meet some of their buddies around a beachside fire.
From there it's off to Tranquilo for a Valentine's Day Trivia night (as it is lovers day after-all.) I maintain that we should have won, but clearly there was some stiff competition.
We end the night at Happy Hut where everyone stands awkwardly around the dance floor.
The next day, Mike wakes me up around 11:00 to tell me he has a Vietnamese coffee waiting for me at Desideri's. I feel rough so I begrudgingly make the journey. We're all a little fuzzy so we spend the day sitting at Beach Bar, sipping Tonas and going for the occasional swim. The water is so clear that we see a shark come right up to the beach. Amanda apologizes for not showing us more of the island, I tell her that the day is ideal.
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| Scary stuff |
That night we are so lucky to get invited to join Jamanda (as they're lovingly referred to) at their friends' Dorian and Kelly's incredible home where we meet John The Pirate and are served an incredible vegetarian coconut curry and rum punch. Joel calls it an early night as he's going fishing in the morning, but the rest of us cruise to Happy Hut for a while.
The next day is much of the same. I take a ridiculously long nap and wake up in time to catch the sunset and join Jamanda and company for a little going away thing. We enjoy the snapper Joel caught in grilled form and as a ceviche made by their friend, Darinia, one of the best cooks on the island. We watch Joel and Jeff as they put on an amazing fire poi show.
We all go back to Stella's with a bunch of others, but I tap out early cause I'm a wuss.
The next day we're sad to see Jamanda leave, but we catch up on some sleep and indulge in the binge-worthy People Vs OJ Simpson. On Saturday we do laundry and are overjoyed to see the boat arrive with the weekly supply of produce; we stock up on veggies and make a massive dinner.
We walk the circumference of the island and decide to stop at Otto Beach, but get lost on the way there and end up wandering through a pristine resort all the while thinking: 'We so don't belong here.' We finally make it and stop for a drink at the beachside bar. I almost consider getting a Dark and Stormy until I see the price: $10 American! I order a coconut, still a ripoff at $3 and literally wait 25 minutes for the guy to grab one, hammer a hole in it, and grab a straw. I get the impression that non-guests are not a priority. I actually longe to jump behind the bar and teach these guys a thing or two about bartending. Finally, I get my drink and we enjoy our beach day.
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| Otto Beach |
We head to the 'lighthouse' for sunset, but quickly realize it is 20 metres up a steep metal ladder onto a sketchy medal grate. Somehow, I manage to climb up and try not to look down. It's crowded at the top, so Mike immediately turns and goes back down. A few other people leave, thankfully, and I'm able to take some shots. Feeling satisfied/terrified, I make my way down (which is miraculously easier.)
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| Terrifying |
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| But this shot is worth it |
The next night is our final night so we celebrate with a few beers. We start getting ready for the evening and I hear the chorus of "Part of Your World" and follow the voices to the neighbouring room. A huge group of people are belting out the Little Mermaid classic, so naturally, I join them. They tell us they're going to The Lighthouse Hotel and Bar and we tell them we'll see them there.
We make it up to Lighthouse and are excited to see this Canadian singer that everyone has been hyping up over the past week. The place is packed: Mike and I finally manage to get beers and cram in with the rest of the people waiting in anticipation.
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| Lighthouse |
She finishes her soundcheck and begins her performance and... she does not live up to my expectations. She's playing the uke, she's cute, and she interacts a lot with the audience, though honestly, I've seen far more talented women performers at an open mic night, but I digress.
I befriend a Canadian couple who are definitely on a less budgeted vacation than myself and because I'm officially out of cash, they buy me rum after rum even when I say no. I convince them to join me at Reggae Bar, I tell them I'm going to take cash off my visa and meet them there in half an hour. Instead, I go to my hostel with every intention of getting my credit card, but instead I sit down on the bed and immediately lapse into a slight coma.
I wake up at 5 am and am overwhelmed with guilt.
Guys, I am SO SORRY! Wherever you are, please forgive me!
The next day we sleep through our check out (though no one at reception seems to care) and hangout at a nearby restaurant waiting for the 1:30 panga. We head there at 12:30 to ensure we get on the first boat. Mike goes to get a snack and I wait in the shade. To my joy, the woman selling tickets arrive and sits DIRECTLY beside me. I stand up and turn to her at an angle, while my fellow travellers line up single file, directly in front of her. She tells me I'm not in the proper line and refuses to sell me a ticket. I turn to my fellow backpackers hoping someone will let me in with them, I was, after all, waiting longer than most of them. I get nothing but dagger eyes in response. I retreat sadly to the end of the line, in the scorching sun, and remind myself that I'm in no rush to get anywhere and the second boat is not the end of the world. Tensions get high when a guy angrily accuses a girl of trying to budge while she insists her friend is holding her spot.
Mike finally returns and asks, "Why are you back here?"
"I don't want to talk about it."
He hands me a Twix bar and smiles. I know he's well meaning, but all I can think is: 'What am I supposed to do with this?' It's deformed from the heat and instantly melts all over my hand, making it impossible to eat, let alone hold. I put it down, along with my sunscreen I've been reapplying. Mere minute later I remember my sunscreen, but when I go back to retrieve it, it's gone. Word to the wise: don't ever come between a pale girl and her sunscreen.
I start to see red. Especially when the lady announces once we're at the front of the line, there's only one sport left on the boat. All I can think is if that German girl hadn't budged in with that other guy we'd be just getting on instead of waiting an hour plus and the burning in the intense sun cause some shithead stole my sunscreen.
We finally make it to Great Corn and walk to the hotel we've been recommended. The two people in front of us get the last room. We wander around sweating balls and finally hail a cab to Mi Mundo Hostel, the girl at reception informs us she has only one bed left. Great. Luckily, she calls over to a lady who rents rooms out of her house and she has space. We finally hail another cab and are grateful to arrive. Maris, our hostess has a comedor and she's making rondón, the traditional coconut fish stew I still haven't tried. I wait 2 and a half hours, and suffer through watching Mike eat his dinner, before receiving my massive stew equipped with a full lobster tail and full grilled fish. It's good, the eating is slow going on account of all the bones and I swallow a pretty hefty one before finally retiring for the night.
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| Paradiso |
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